Andrew J. Wainwright

The first picture shows the router set-up I used to create the large bevel on the underside of the top, and the second some of the hand planed details on the bottom edges of the top itself. Then I set the top on the base, always an interesting moment. Time for some finish: it will be interesting to see how the ebonized base goes with the cherry top!

After sanding the top flat, I laid out the locations of the cut-outs for the legs. Rather critical! After cutting out the bulk of the waste with a router and pattern, each hole was bevelled to a 5 degree angle, to match the slope of the legs. This entailed careful use of file, scraper and sandpaper. The clearances around the holes have to be very even. I then made a prototype of one end of the top, to model and refine my vision of the piece. I added a few subtle chamfers to the underside, and then was ready to proceed with the top itself.

Glue-up is a nerve wracking process for woodworkers. It is a make or break time where hours of meticulous labour and fine materials can be lost in a matter of minutes. I try and plan carefully, have whatever tools and materials necessary on hand. Still, no matter how many times one "dry fits" a piece, the glue adds another element... In this case, all went well. Note the tapered cauls I made that conform to the radius and taper of the legs.

The top of this table is to be cherry. I wanted a particularly attractive piece as I feel this design showcases the top. Sorting through my lumber collection, I came across a spectacular board: 17" wide, 10' long and somewhat incredibly, with only 1/16" of cup. The latter is important as this top is relatively unsupported, so starting with a naturally flat piece results in a naturally stable top. After highlighting some of the grain patterns, I cross cut the board, carefully trimming it to size to best show the grain. I then flattened and planed the boards, gluing the two halves together.

The "pairs of legs" are joined together by longitudinal stretchers. These are joined with sliding dovetails, a joint with very fine tolerances. I cut the sockets first, then shaped the tails to fit. Next I lapped in a centre cross-member to add support to the top at its widest point. The table will now stand with no glue, very satisfying!