Evolution Equestrian Co.

What is the longest a horse can safely go without food? More and more I see horses and ponies stood for long periods of time with no hay or haylage. Usually un...der the guise of a weight control diet. So how long can a horse be without food before damage is done? And what damage is done? For those with a short attention span, I’ll give you the answer to begin with - 4 hours, maximum. Why? Horses are grazers. They are designed to eat constantly. They have no way of storing their acids and digestive enzymes, they’ve never needed to. They have no gall bladder to store bile and their stomachs release acid constantly, whether or not there is food in the stomach and intestines. A horses stomach only holds approximately 8-15 litres. Depending on the substance eaten, it takes on average 4-6 hours for the stomach to completely empty. After this, the acids and enzymes start to digest the inside of the horses stomach and then the intestines. This causes both gastric and intestinal ulceration. It has been estimated that 25-50% of foals and 60-90% of adult horses suffer from ulceration. But I won’t go into detail about this, there is a lot of information around about ulcers. So is that it? Are ulcers the only concern? No, having an empty stomach is a stress situation for a horse. The longer they are starved, the more they release stress hormones, cortisol predominantly. Cortisol blocks insulin and causes a constantly high blood glucose level. This stimulates the body to release even more insulin, and in turn this causes fat tissue to be deposited and leptin resistance. Over time this causes insulin resistance (Equine Metabolic Syndrome). All of these mechanisms are well known risk factors for laminitis and are caused by short term starvation (starting roughly 3-4 hours after the stomach empties). Starving a laminitic is literally the worst thing you can do. Over longer periods, this also starts to affect muscle and can cause weakness, and a lack of stamina so performance horses also need a constant supply of hay/haylage to function optimally. Let’s not forget horses are living, breathing and feeling animals. We talk about this stress reaction like it’s just internal but the horse is well aware of this stress. Door kicking, box walking, barging and many other stable vices and poor behaviour can be explained by a very stressed horse due to food deprivation (we all have that Hangry friend to explain this reaction). Next time you shout or hit a horse that dives for their net, remember their body is genuinely telling them they are going to starve to death. They know no different. But surely they spend the night asleep so they wouldn’t eat anyway? Not true. Horses only need 20mins REM sleep every 24 hours (jealous? I am!). They may spend a further hour or so dozing but up to 22-23 hours a day are spent eating. So if you leave your horse a net at 5pm and it’s gone by 8pm, then by 12am their stomach is empty. By 4am they are entering starvation mode. By their next feed at 8am, they are extremely stressed, physically and mentally. Now I know the cob owners are reading this mortified. I can almost hear you shouting at your screen if I feed my horse ad lib hay he won’t fit out the stable door in a week!! I will say that a horse with a constant supply of hay/haylage will eat far less then the same horse that is intermittently starved. They don’t eat in a frenzy, reducing the chance of colic from both ulcers and over eating. Cobs included. However I’m not suggesting you sit your cob in front of a bale of haylage and say have at it! There is a difference between ad lib and a constant supply. There is much we can do to reduce calorie intake and control weight whilst feeding a constant supply. The easiest is small holes nets. There are many. Trickle nets, greedy feeders, nibbleze, trawler nets etc. My personal favourite is the Shires Soft Mesh 1. They don’t cost the Earth, they are easy to fill and they don’t have knots so are much gentler to the teeth. Now often I suggest these types of nets to owners and the owner tells me Oh no, *** won’t eat out of those this is nonsense. If he was left it, he would. Remember, you can give a normal net and one of these for them to nibble at after. Better than leaving them with nothing at all. A few other tricks, hang the net from the ceiling/rafters, it’s harder to eat out of a net that swings. Soak the hay, a minimum of 4 hours to be effective. Mix with straw but be sure to introduce the straw slowly and make sure it’s top quality and a palatable type eg Barley or Oat, otherwise they won’t eat it. Don’t forget exercise. The best way to get weight off a horse is exercise. Enough exercise and they can eat what they want! And lay off the bucket feed and treats! Horses on a diet require a vit/min supplement in the form of a balancer but that’s it. The odd slice of carrot or suede won’t do any harm but no licks, treats, treacle, molasses, cereal based rubbish. Even if it says low sugar or the marvellously misleading No added sugar! Your horse would rather have a constant supply of hay, I promise. Written by Vikki Fowler BVetMed BAEDT MRCVS A few edits for the critics- Firstly, feeding a constant supply does not mean ad lib feeding. It means use some ingenuity and spread the recommended amount of daily forage so the horse is never stood with out food for more than 4 hours. I am not promoting obesity, quite the opposite, feeding like this reduces obesity and IR. This can be done whilst feeding your horse twice a day as most horse owners do. Just think outside the box for your own situation. Secondly I am in the UK and this post is UK specific, use some common sense when reading. Yes in warmer climates, soaking hay for 4 hours is dangerous and studies show 1 hour is plenty in hot weather but in the UK’s arctic climate, a minimum of 4 hours is required. Equally the UK feed exclusively grass hay. I can not comment on other types. Thirdly, yes every horse/pony and situation is different, but this is a law of nature and all horses have this anatomy and metabolism. How you achieve this constant supply is individual, the need for it is not. Fourthly, the use of hay nets in the UK is very very high. I’d estimate 95% of horses I see are fed this way and very very few have incisor wear or neck/back issues as a result. Yes, feeding from the ground is ideal, but a constant supply, I feel trumps this. Again with ingenuity both can be safely achieved. Finally, straw can be fed to horses safely, introduced very slowly, with fresh water always available, plus a palatable and digestible type of straw which will depend on your area. Again many horses in the UK are bedded on straw and most of them eat it. This is not a new concept to us.

There are always two types of people at the gym

Everyone gets a Christmas Dinner!

Here we go! Based on this picture, we can see this horse’s main saddle fit issue is: THE SADDLE SLIDES FORWARD up the neck/over the scapula. When the girth groo...ve is MORE FORWARD than the caudal (back) edge of the scapula, the saddle will always be pulled forward. WHY? The girth will always sit in the girth groove NO MATTER WHAT. It’s worth noting that of all the miracles Jesus performed while on Earth, getting the girth to sit anywhere but the girth groove WASN’T ONE OF THEM. Turning water into wine my absolute favorite miracle. NO PROBLEMO. Bringing Lazarus back from the dead. EASY PEASY. Walking on water. Casting out demons. Making the blind see. Curing paralysis. ALL GOOD. Getting the girth to sit anywhere but the girth groove. Notably NOT a miracle He performed, because it’s FREAKIN’ IMPOSSIBLE. BUT SERIOUSLY Based on saddle design, when the girth groove is forward of the tree points, the billets will be angled forward and drag the saddle forward over the scapula. THE BEST SOLUTION: Adjust the location of the front (#1) billet so it lays perpendicular to the ground. This may not always be possible, but there are other tricks saddle fitters use based on a particular horse’s conformation. IN MY OPINION This particular horse is an exceptionally difficult case because his girth groove is so narrow and so far forward. Good job, everyone! #saddlefitting #saddlefit #girthgroove #equineanatomy #horsesofinstagram #poniesofinstagram #doesyoursaddlefit #jesuslovesyou #butevenhecantfixit

We have one Western Saddle currently listed. Handmade in Texas, this 15" B&C Barrel Saddle is a great all around saddle. Designed with rough out on the seat, jockey, fender and some of the skirt. Skirt measures 25.5. An estimate of 7 gullet and FQH Bars. Fleece is worn but still in good condition. Small scratch on the horn, but otherwise in good condition. Asking $850... https://evolutionequestriantack.ca/inventory/bcbarrelsaddle See more

New Listing 16" Dakota Roper Saddle. Quarter Horse Bars, 27" skirt. Asking $650 https://evolutionequestriantack.ca/inventory/16dakotasaddle

IMPORTANT UPDATE Sadly, COVID-19 has put the brakes on my own store opening at the moment. This means I am changing our consignment system. Moving forward we will be listed saddles only, and select higher-end tack and no clothing. We have a consignment rate of 20% commission. ... If you are interested in listing your saddle with me, please send me a message. Thank you for all of your support!

Oh it is a year that will go down in history.

This can not be shared enough!

#TackTipTuesday Measuring the seat on a western saddle. www.EvolutionEquestrianTack.ca

http:// Terminology Tuesday - The Central Pattern Generators // When a foal is born, the gaits are already embedded. The limb sequences and their diagonal connection...s are already present in all gaits. This is because of the Central Pattern Generators. Put simply, the Central Pattern Generators (CPGs) are dense clusters of nerves in the spinal cord that coordinate the limb movements. There is one in the cervical thoracic region (withers) and another in the lumbar/sacral region (loins). The concept of the Central Pattern Generator can be a complex topic to understand, but the key pieces of information that are interesting are: The CPGs enable the patterns of the gaits without any input from the brain. The front CPG is the decision-maker - it informs the hind end, which provides feedback. Take a look at this animation of the Central Pattern Generators in action. Notice how the front is informing the back, and they are both directing the limbs. There is some feedback from back to front but the main message regarding the gait itself is coming from the front CPG. One of the reasons the great masters of equitation emphasised that the walk is the ‘mother of all gaits’ is because the walk is the slowest gait, and each limb is separated, so it’s easier for the trainer to target the precise moment a leg can be most influenced, which is the beginning of the lift (swing) phase.

Toby looking super cute in his new saddle! Thank you, Molly for the photo! #happycustomer

Grateful for friendships

What’s wrong with this picture? There are two main things I zeroed in on when I saw this horse being saddled: 1. The position of the strap that attaches to the ...billets, and 2. The length of the half pad in relation to the saddle pad (and potentially the length of the saddle). THE STRAP: Regardless if you use a half pad or not, the strap should ALWAYS be untucked and either used as intended or simply cut off. Leaving a strap between the saddle and the horse’s skin can cause rubs, sores, and extreme discomfort. I recommend cutting the strap off right where it’s stitched to the pad - that way there’s no chance it will accidentally get tucked under the saddle. THE LENGTH OF THE PADS: If the length of the saddle is shorter than the pad, and the saddle sits well inside the piping of the pad - having a too long half pad is unsightly, but not really problematic for fit. However, many of you correctly answered that *if the saddle was the same length as the half pad* and the cantle of the saddle sat on the back of the pad, the piping and edge of the pad would absolutely create pressure points. Good job!

TAIL TELLS If a horse's tail gets caught between his hind legs he is not using his body properly. If the tail lays flat and listless these are clues that energy..., messages and feedback from the brain to the body and back may not be traveling up and down his spine properly. If the tail is clamped down, the horse may be in fear or in pain, closing the hindquarters down. This is something to discuss with your veterinarian. If your horse's tail swishes constantly and more so during transitions, changes, or anytime you make a request, your aids may be too loud or he may be frustrated with the work. A little swishing when asked to do something demanding for a short time is different from constant swishing. We must observe and know our horse to figure out what is concentration and what is upset. The tail reflects the health of our horse's spine. As the spine undulates in a slightly serpentine pattern through our horses' body, his tail should carry through this motion. As our horse uses his back and body better and better, as his balance changes and improves, he will use his tail differently. We want to keep an eye on it and note improvements or set backs as they tell us how well the training is progressing or is stalling. We look for a tail that is carried in a soft arch slightly away from the body with the mass of hair rhythmically moving from hock to hock in a pendulum motion. Touching your horse's tail, gently lifting it and rotating it, combing the hair with your fingers, taking segments and gently pulling them in a circular motion while observing your horse will give you feedback about how he feels in his back and body. This should be done easily with no resistance, the tail should have a good weight in your hands and feel alive, not dead. PLEASE PROCEED WITH CAUTION. Stand to the side at first and stay close to the croup. If your horse reflexively clamps down or threatens to kick, do not try to force the issue or become aggressive. Reassure your horse with a neutral touch and your voice. If the problem persist, contact your health care pro, do not insist as you and your horse may get hurt. UPDATE: 1: About the crooked tail We had shared this explanation from Equinology a few years back which matches Manolo’s understanding: There are numerous reasons for a tail held to one side. A spinal misalignment, an injury, restrictions to any of the soft tissues, a reproductive concern or a lame limb can be one of the many issues. If a horse is not bearing equal weight on a limb in a unilateral (one sided) issue the horse tends to rest that limb. In resting that limb it swings the pelvis forward and points the sacral (croup) and caudal (tail) bones towards that limb. Try it for yourself. Put your hands behind your back; hold your hands against your spine in an upside down prayer fashion. Now, lift your heel to offload your leg so your pelvis of that side moves forward and you will see that your fingers point to that leg. It doesn’t take long for this adaptation of posture to show up and begin compensatory issues. Some of the other muscles that you need to consider are two of the hamstrings; the semimembranosus and the semitendinosus. Horses are a bit different than us and have attachments to the spine; with 2 strong attachments to the first two tail bones. If one of these hamstrings are tight and when they are in this shortened state, they will incline those bones to the restricted side. Voila, crooked tail." FOR THE REST OF THE ARTICLE AND MORE ADVICE on how to massage the hamstrings and help release and straighten the tail, please read the detailed and extremely well illustrated attached pdf from Debranne Patillo and Equinology, Inc. http://www.manolomendezdressage.com//Equinology-Hamstring- Thank you for your generosity Debranne in sharing educational knowledge with us at a moments notice and with the equestrian community worldwide. UPDATE 2: We read a very insightful post from one reader we wanted to share relating to the potential relationship between a harder tail grooming and washing experience and possible surrounding muscle soreness: Fran Welsby wrote: " Hi, do you find how a horse accepts their tail being washed also gives you clues? We shampoo, condition then use a de-tangle spray thru the tail then using our fingers carefully separate out the hairs from the roots to the ends. I have found that the ponies that relax, give me their tails to do all this generally fall asleep while I work, those that don't often will be the ones with some haunch/ham string issues." An interesting observation. For a lot of information about horses tails, we also recommend you check Kentucky Equine Research's Equinews resource. There is a reason why KER is the company Manolo trusts with his horses's nutrition and supplemental needs! https://ker.com/?s=tail&search-option=library&lib=1 Manolo Mendez Dressage - repost

Placing a saddle. This may seem common knowledge to many, however there are various schools of thought not just on how to fit a saddle but also how to place on...e on the back of the horse. Some schools suggest sliding the saddle back a few inches to give the scapula room the move. However, when you do this you're effectively shrinking the saddle support area and causing the rear of the saddle to sit on the lumbar. So, why is this bad? The back of the horse will continually push and kick the saddle forward, so regardless of how far you try and slide it back, it will move forward both by the motion of the back, and the girth attempting to find the area of least resistance (the sternum) where the ribcage narrows. You now have 2 forces that will pull the saddle forward and into the shoulder you're attempting to protect. This type of positioning is common with saddles fitted to the wither, but in reality it's the shoulder you must consider. A horse in motion moves the scapula well over 2" back during locomotion, so fitting to the wither and attempting to fight the laws of physics isn't going to end well for the horse, resulting instead in restricted movement of the forelegs, atrophy, white hairs, pressure sores, etc. The correct way (a battle cry to the keyboard warriors and armchair experts) is to place the saddle just behind the shoulder blade. The saddle will "fall" into place and, if fitted correctly to the shoulder width and angle (and of course length), allow that scapula to slide underneath the saddle without it kicking the saddle backwards or to one side or having it pushed on top of the shoulders by the movement of the back. A saddle sliding backwards, forwards or twisting/falling to either side is a red flag for any rider that there is something amiss with the fit of the saddle.

#TackTipTuesday. Let's talk about some common blanketing myths.

SOLD! This cute Western Rawhide is on the way to its new home! www.EvolutionEquestrianTack.ca

Time to ride! 15" B&C Barrel Saddle. Handmade in Texas. Designed with roughout and on an estimated 7" tree and FQHB. Asking $850... https://evolutionequestriantack.ca/inventory/bcbarrelsaddle

Get ready to hit the trails with this 17.5" Sensation Treeless Dressage Package. Comes with two styles of stirrups and a 24" Sesntation girth. Asking $1500 https://evolutionequestriantack.ca/i/175-sensation-treeless

Sold! This saddle is heading down to the USA. www.EvolutionEquestrianTack.ca

Things are starting to get SPOOKY!

Price Reduced on this 15" Western Rawhide! Now only $900 https://evolutionequestriantack.ca/inventory/canchaser

A neat diagram!

#TackTipTuesday Trying to get back into routine, as we all know it is 2020 Anyways, this Tack Tip is how to measure your horse for tendon boots. www.EvolutionEquestrianTack.ca

Tons of beautiful Antares tack just listed! 56" Leather Girth - $225 54" Stud Girth - $300 Full Set of Leather Boots - $250 Breastplate Size 3 - $250... Standing Martingale Size 2 - $200 Find more photos online www.EvolutionEquestrianTack.ca