MegaCity Performance
4505 32 street S9v1n5 Lloydminster, SK, Canada

KLR650 Temperature has it's own album - click here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/

Mcp Carb Correction Kit For the KLR650 Gen 1 & 2 including the Tengai and C models. The Keihin CVK40 cannot be properly tuned without the MCP Correction Kit installed. MCP Works on KLR's with ALL Levels of modification, simply pick the kit that matches your bike. Works for big bore KLRs too. ... You get more Power without sacrificing much Fuel Economy. There are no bogs, hesitations or dead spots in the throttle with MCP and it even eliminates SURGING while cruising & stops the popping from the exhaust when slowing down. Your machine will pull hard to red line in any gear and you will also notice an incredible increase in bottom end and mid range torque. Starting is improved and a MCP provides a noticeably stronger idle. You also get power on demand with "EFI Like" throttle response. Engine vibration is reduced and engine temperature is stabilized. Customer Reviews Here https://www.facebook.com/MegaCityPerformance/reviews/ More Customer Reviews are here (click the photos) https://www.facebook.com/pg/MegaCityPerformance/photos/?tab=album&album_id=109678753915442 Videos are here https://www.facebook.com/pg/MegaCityPerformance/videos/ Dyno Sheets are here https://www.facebook.com/pg/MegaCityPerformance/photos/?tab=album&album_id=172294527653864 To get the MCP kit you simply order the kit that matches your KLR, Example: a completely stock bike needs the kit for stock exhaust and stock air box, if the pipe has been changed or the air box modified then a different kit is required, see kit descriptions. Visit the MCP online Store: https://megacityperformance.square.site/ Reasonable shipping rates ! U.S. Shipments via UPS take 7-14 days approximately to arrive We ship worldwide with only a few exceptions The MCP ONLINE STORE is here: https://megacityperformance.square.site/

Adding the MCP Carb Kit and the MCP Thermal Control System completely change the temperature personality of the KLR650 making it function properly. The MCP Thermal Control System is a recirculation mod. The design features increased cooling efficiency functioning drastically better than stock or other similar mods, especially noticeable in extreme temperatures. It creates more even temperatures top to bottom, runs cooler and has 0 abnormal temperature swings. The MCP Carb Correction Kit eliminates "cold blooded" behavior from the KLR650, it also stops running HOT in other circumstances, both due to corrected air fuel mixtures the MCP Carb Kit provides. Learn more about the MCP Carb Kit here https://www.facebook.com/media/set/

The KLR650 is challenged as for as temperature stability in its stock form. Two things are at fault for the erratic temperatures associated with the KLR650. Poor cooling system design combined with flawed carburetor design give the KLR650 erratic unpredictable temperatures. Scroll through the photo's and read comments to learn how to take control of the engine and cooling system temperatures.

Checking Engine Oil - There is more to it than you might think. Oil level cannot be checked on the side stand, balance the machine vertically and look at the sight glass. Should be at least half full on the window and have a bubble at the top. The bubble is important! Yes, it is especially important in the KLR to keep the oil level up, specifically in oil burners. ... It is JUST as important to make sure it isn't OVER FULL. Having a bubble in the top of the window is important, it indicates that the right level has been achieved and is being maintained. The float needle and seat leaking or the fuel tap diaphragms leaking can flood the crank cases with gasoline. You can ruin the engine and potentially blow yourself up. Keep in mind the oil level is a little different between a hot and cold engine. A hot engine has to sit for a few mins before the oil level can be checked. (After adding fuel is a good time) Just because you know your KLR doesn't use oil doesn't mean you should check it less. The oil always needs checked to make sure its not contaminated with Fuel!

exhaust contact width and position is perfect, lapped in lightly.

#3 Coasting Enrichener - Designed to stop backfiring when the throttle is closed while decelerating. It controls one of two pilot air jets. When the diaphragm fails poor fuel economy and backfiring result. This diaphragm should be replaced every 10 years. This is a maintenance item and should be in Kawasaki's service schedule along with the fuel tap diaphragms every 5 years. As you see in the photo this one is wet, should be dry on both sides as it controls air. When the di...aphragm leaks, fuel and air are pulled backwards in the circuit, directly into the intake manifold. Compressed air in the wrong place can pop it, always completely disassemble the carburetor before blowing out with 80+ psi. 100-120 is best. Proper safety equip should be worn. 43028-0016 Enrichener Diaphragm 92055-1245 Enrichener O ring 43028-1033 Fuel Tap Diaphragm Set 43049-1103 Fuel Tap Selector Seal

KLR650 - These are the two biggest culprits for bad fuel economy. Vacuum fuel tap DIAPHRAGM and the Coasting Enrichener DIAPHRAGM. In both cases, ONLY rubber membranes separate intake vacuum from fuel. Both diaphragms are exposed to DIRECT intake vacuum, and when you let off the throttle at high rpm there is A LOT of vacuum!... There is also direct vacuum to the air injection valve, never seen a problem with one though. Two of only a FEW fuel system wear items. The vacuum fuel tap diaphragm set should be replaced every 5 years and the coasting enrichener diaphragm (and o ring) every 10 years. The are both maintenance items. Unfortunately Kawasaki doesn't give them away. 43028-0016 Enrichener Diaphragm 92055-1245 Enrichener O ring 43028-1033 Fuel Tap Diaphragm Set 43049-1103 Fuel Tap Selector Seal

STOP your balancer chain whining ! Due to the sheer size of the KLR engine, the amount it expands from cold to hot is notable. This fact means, that the balancer chain should be adjusted with the engine at operating temperature @ TDC. TDC is used because the balancer weights, which offset the weight of the flywheels, are pretty heavy and can effect the amount of force exerted on the spring loaded chain tensioner. When installing the Eagle Mfg. Chain adjuster and torsion spr...ing, the process is only complete after a 15 minute warm up ride, then re adjusting the tensioner. The upgraded adjuster lever and spring is advised for all models, Gen1 (A model), Gen2 (E model), the new Gen3, Tengai B model and the KLR C model. When changing the Doohickey (adjuster lever), and before installing the flywheel, i adjust the lever by pushing against the spring force on the adjuster to reduce the spring force applied to the chain so it isn't as tight. This way it doesn't WHINE until its re adjusted at operating temperature. If you leave it to just stretch in the whining will go away fairly quickly, this just accelerates chain wear. Adjusting the balancer chain too often accelerates wear if not done correctly, the factory schedule for adjustment should be followed. Every 10-12k miles is what I recommend. see more info on the adjuster here https://www.facebook.com//a.244136713802978/258354942381155

Best all around bike - but it has personality. Keep an eye on these points. Fuel tap, forgot to put the fuel tap.

Often the auto decompressor is blamed for this failure. Nearly 100% of decompressor failures start with oil starvation to the head. When the exhaust cam is starved for oil, the right hand cam journal gets hogged out and the cam starts bouncing around. This play allows the decompressor to impact the head and the valve cover destroying it. All the bearing caps look like they got hot, they should be aluminum color not tan. The Black one, oh boy did that cook, you can see the threads got pulled in the head as well from the hammering of the cam

The rest of the stuff to do the ceramic mechanical seal and oil seal on the water pump.

Rumors around of a DR1000

Updated this, with a couple thousand kits out I have a pretty good handle on the issues people have installing MCP and the existing issues that affect the proper running after MCP is installed.

getting behind on posting reviews. Sorry for soo many posts today

Anthony's pumped, thanks Anthony

MCP vs KLX - yet another winner!!! Thanks Robert !

Your MCP kit was designed to run with REGULAR FUEL (Yes ethanol ok too). Your bike will run a bit rich on premium or mid grade fuel. The only reason to run premium is with HIGH COMPRESSION engines or engines that the jetting is LEAN. With MCP, your jetting is perfect for running REGULAR ETHANOL FUEL. ... YOU'RE ONLY COSTING YOURSELF POWER AND MONEY RUNNING PREMIUM. Big bores larger than 700cc should run premium. Keep in mind, fuels vary station to station, brand to brand. Ethanol fuel should be drained from the carburetor if it is going to be sitting for and extended period of time. That's all. (meaning more than a few weeks).

The MCP Sticker. 1.5 x 3". Thinking of making a 9 x 4.5" to go on the side # plates. would anyone besides me be interested in this?

I spend a LOT of time making albums. Anytime someone asks something that can't just send them a link to answer, i create a new post for the next time someone asks. There is a wealth of FREE no BS info here. Click "Photo's" then "See All" MegaCity Performance

Jason O Seems to think its a win. The first BRAND NEW KLR to get MCP'd before 15 miles on the CLOCK.

If I Listened To What Other Ppl Say about my theories, the MCP kit wouldn't be. :)

Revised Jet Chart with recommendations for the "Quiet Exhaust Tips" effect on FLOW

Dave's enjoying MCP it seems. Also notes the tach reading 300 rpm lower due to the timing being affected by the stabilized crank speed MCP creates (Rpm hasn't changed as no gearing was changed).

Good day in the shop, my shoulder is SOO done tho.

Todays progress, suspension off the 08, the 08 bottom end removed. The 09 Engine installed. The 09 rear suspension installed. Everything torqued down, even got the electronics and overflow coolant bottle hooked up. Tomorrow service the 08 lh fork, install the progressive spring from the damaged 09 fork. Install the 17 spring on the spare shock and install. Going to service the steering bearings before installing forks, tomorrow.

Looking FWD to start putting the KLR together, ripping two apart has been fun, but building the bike starts today or tomorrow, just gotta pull the front and rear susp on the 08, Drop the bottom end out. THEN ITS ON!!!

Snap on extend a wrench mod, works every time

Sept 22/2020 round 2, subframe off the 08.

Todays progress , so far

How do you resist? 45$ compared to $135.00 for name brand risers. Being Canadian I don't condone the politically motivated arrest and detention of two Canadian citizens by the Communist Chinese Government. I will spend the extra 90$. This is how Canadians and any person who is motivated to help the world change puts pressure on the system. Suck it up and stop buying Communist products. (when you have a choice, soon we won't have a choice unless we change the way we think and buy). #Amazon

Adjusting the balancer chain is important, It is equally important to change out the stock adjuster for the Eagle Mike Lever kit with Torsion spring as the stock unit runs out of adjustment on the first adjust often. I suggest to only adjust the stock lever once, at 5k miles. Any adjustment of the stock adjuster is counter productive beyond approx 5k miles. Adjust the balancer chain every other oil change (or every change, it only takes a second). Most people do a hot oil cha...nge which is perfect because the balancer chain should be adjusted with the engine at operating temperature. Being aluminum the engine grows quite a bit so adjusting the chain with the engine at operating temp will negate unnecessary wear on the chain. To adjust the balancer chain once the upgraded adjuster is installed is as simple as can be. Remove the rubber plug that covers the adjuster's locking bolt and then simply loosen the adjuster locking bolt half a turn, take a rubber mallet and tap the engine cover right above the adjuster, re tighten the lock bolt to 96 inch pounds and re install the plug. Done.

MCP in now in GERMANY Too, or at least going. The list of where MCP has traveled is. Canada, USA, Australia, Puerto Rico, England, Iceland, France, Germany. So far.so good

Another happy rider

08-18 KLR650 bottom end 900$ Canadian plus shipping. 12,000 MILES on the machine it came from (2008). More pictures to follow. ( starter motor not included). Cam chain in great condition based on the amount of chain tensioner adjustment left prior to disassembly. Doohickey Can be done prior to shipping upon request. (Additional Charge)

2009 KLR650 seat, this seat is horribly uncomfortable BUT, the pan is good if someone looking to customize or get a kit. 75$ Canadian + shipping

Faded 2009 oriental blue rear fender, fits 2008+ 35$ . Front is sold, $ mostly to cover my time to pack em up. Shipping is extra

2008-2018 KLR650 2 inch lowering links. 60$ Canadian + shipping/tax (approx 45$ US). Used 1 day. If a person had a real stiff spring for loading the bike for touring, these are easy to change and a lowering kit reduces the effective spring rate giving a smooth commuter ride. Opposite scenario a person can install raising links to increase the spring rate. Between stock, raising and lowering links, a person can change the rear suspension feel completely and its a 15 minute change

yet another oil ring assembly/installation issue

I think I figured out how to pull the engine on a gimpy leg. Im goin to pull it completely apart, both of em. So Ill pull the front and rear suspension. And set the frame on the floor. , lil piece of carpet under the block it should slide right out

For what the parts would cost to fix the 09 (not counting a frame) would be more than the price of this parts bike. This 2008 will be gone through front to back, top to bottom and will be my new ride With an 09 Wiseco 658 engine (yes 658. 0.5 mm over = 658).

figured i better hold off pulling motors till the leg is a bit more solid

Sept 18/2020 KLR650 blown motor project- work has started stripping the crashed KLR650. Figured i should wait until the leg is stronger before i start carrying engines around lol

Blown up KLR650 Project- sept 18 this is the roasted cam from the blown motor. There was only 1.5 liters of oil left in the motor.

this thing is down to 650$. PEI Canada

Seeing as i'm an EBC brakes Vendor i may start carrying the brake pads for both gens. Here is the thing, i really only ever planned on doing carb stuff, the idea was never to make huge money, the idea was to help everyone have a properly running bike for the first time in its life. So here is the question, do i stay a carb only guy or do i branch out. I really wasn't planning on going big. Think anyone would buy brakes from MCP?... I guess the true intention was to only make stuff that is better than what is currently available. MCP Carb Correction KIT for example, and the soon to be MCP thermo by pass kit (Very soon), picking up another batch of needles and thumb screws soon so i'll be having choke nuts MADE and the spacer block for the thermo by pass.

Available in the MCP Online Store https://megacityperformance.square.site/

STOP THE PRESSES, apparently now i'm crazy because i say MCP reduces VIBRATIONS lol

KLR650 Blown motor project - took this out of the new to me 08 KLR, FULL of grit and dust. Not good for the motor for sure! I see some issues with the hose under the air box, filter SEEMS OK, will investigate further. Good thing is I now have a spare carb to make MCP INSTALL VIDEO/ a CARB cleaning and service video and firstly will be a video on how to remove the cover over the mix screw

Didn't feel like going out to the shop the last couple days. Weather is crap compared to June. But compared to January it's damn beautiful. I figure i better get out there tomorrow before there is snow, which could happen any time now but doesn't usually stay till mid to end of October.

6 pt versus 12 point, I own about half n half but when something is really STUCK, 6 point sb your go to. Far less chance to round the corners off the nut/bolt. I know i sometimes post stuff that seems like common sense. Not everyone is hugely mechanically inclined.

Pretty much sums it up

Just found a good source for these, the MCP Thermo By Pass is coming together. All i need to do now is have the spacer block made.

UGH, 50 degrees as a high ..... 32 overnight. sucks