Blush Bra Christine Stoodley

I haven’t posted in a while. Christmas break and everyone home made for little time for me to hide and sew. But what I had discovered between then and now has been mind blowing for me with fitting a bra. This also increases the comfort on the ribcage. I have been experimenting with my band for almost 5 years (since the beginning of my professional bra making journey). I think I had tried every wedge and dart adjustment known. And I find myself the hardest and toughest t...o fit. What I have discovered is that the centre bridge width and wire angles need to be exact for the comfort and fit for the rest of the bra. After some eyeliner drawing on my own body and measuring my overall bridge was almost 1 too narrow. Although the second photo looks like it fits, as soon as I started moving my wires would slide down. Then to compensate that I would tighten my straps up. This would cause the backband to ride up the back no matter how tight the band was. Then my tissue would just get squished. My bras always felt tight on the frame along the bottom. Back to the drawing board. Drafted my band with my new bridge width values and adding a small wedge along the side seam (only to the frame) I have a band that fits and doesnt move when I move. I had discovered that my front ‘half’ of my rib cage is not half of my measurement. It is longer cause of my flared ribs. I want to note that the cups in the original bra were reused in this bra!! All the issues I was having with my cups wasnt cause of my cups not fitting. Not only the symptom of sliding down wires, but I had horizontal wrinkles in the lower inner cup with a ‘flat spot’. Stay tuned to my next bra!! @bramakerssupply for the #rubypattern and all the lace and materials. #custombra #custombramaker #sewyyc #lacebra #brasewing #lingeriesewing #lingeriemaking #pinupgirlspatterns #sewersofinstragram See more

To be 15 years old and not have anything that fits. This girl has such a tiny ribcage that no RTW bra comes small enough. Her left and right breasts have different projection as well. So... one side has 2 layers of foam. She put this on and was amazed at what a well fitting bra does. She requested something ‘neutral’ but I decided to add a bit of really pretty lace from @libelle_sewing, cause lace makes everything that much prettier. I custom drafted a band for her, fit her wires and used the Ruby pattern from @bramakerssupply for the cups. Which are covered in stretch mesh in pale pink. I think I need one like this. #lingeriemaking #lingeriesewing #brasswing #lacebra #bramaker #bramakersupply #rubybra #pinupgirlspattern #therubybra #madeincanada #handmade #sewing #luxurious #lace #lingerie #selfdrafted #madetomeasure

Forme Bralette. @bratobe I was lucky enough to get one drafted in 100% powernet. When I compared it to my conversion from the mesh it was almost identical. I had just missed on adding to the cup curves. Which explains why my first version was just that much too small in the cups. This is so comfortable. One last adjustment for the fit for me is darting in the top of the side seam between the outer cup and band and or the underarm of the outer cup for a better fit. This... is an alteration I am playing with my wired bras. I have flared ribs so finding that wedge needed for the bottom band and dart for the upper band has been full of experimenting. I have so much pretty lace to use. I will be making another of these again soon. #handmade #customdraft #formebralette #bratobe #lacebralette #sewing #lace #lingerie #sewyourown #handmadelingerie #madetomeasure #lingerielove #madeincanada #sewyyc See more

I have a client who pushes me to create. This is her latest. Last year was a strapless!! This is a wired sports bra made from her master pattern. I raised the centre front, underarms and changed the back-band to a ‘racer back’. The final product utilizes wickable material on the lower cup and a wide bottom band elastic. I used sheer cup lining as a stabilizer under scuba. Her plan is to use this for a number of high impact physical activities. #custommade #custommadebra #yycsews #bramakerssupply #sportsbra #supportivesportsbra #bramaker #bramakers

Its been a busy weekend. This fushia bra is the second mock up for a short wire. The first version I decided to draft her band via Bare Essentials 3 drafting and put in the cups from The classic with the added split lower cup cause the tester bra fit her close to perfect. Well, this mash up failed. The band was way off fitting her which in turn did not have the cups fit well (regardless of the support the wire gave). So we went back to the tester and now this is 100% PUG... classic but with a few mods. Downward hike the backband, lower centre front to clients preference for a shorter wire, split the lower cup cause of shape and density, wedged out the neckline cause it was digging in. She has a 4.25 BCD which recommends a 1/2 BBE but I gave her a 3x3 hook and eye for extra band support with the plunging neckline. The finished version will have a purple lace over. All supplies are from @bramakerssupply #classicbra #bramaking #bramakingsupplies #customfitbra #bramaker #bramakers #pugclassicbra #handmade #sewing #sewyourownlingerie #handmadelingerie #madetomeasure #sewyyc See more

To be 15 years old and not have anything that fits. This girl has such a tiny ribcage that no RTW bra comes small enough. Her left and right breasts have different projection as well. So... one side has 2 layers of foam. She put this on and was amazed at what a well fitting bra does. She requested something ‘neutral’ but I decided to add a bit of really pretty lace from @libelle_sewing, cause lace makes everything that much prettier. I custom drafted a band for her, fit her wires and used the Ruby pattern from @bramakerssupply for the cups. Which are covered in stretch mesh in pale pink. I think I need one like this. #lingeriemaking #lingeriesewing #brasswing #lacebra #bramaker #bramakersupply #rubybra #pinupgirlspattern #therubybra #madeincanada #handmade #sewing #luxurious #lace #lingerie #selfdrafted #madetomeasure

Forme Bralette. @bratobe I was lucky enough to get one drafted in 100% powernet. When I compared it to my conversion from the mesh it was almost identical. I had just missed on adding to the cup curves. Which explains why my first version was just that much too small in the cups. This is so comfortable. One last adjustment for the fit for me is darting in the top of the side seam between the outer cup and band and or the underarm of the outer cup for a better fit. This... is an alteration I am playing with my wired bras. I have flared ribs so finding that wedge needed for the bottom band and dart for the upper band has been full of experimenting. I have so much pretty lace to use. I will be making another of these again soon. #handmade #customdraft #formebralette #bratobe #lacebralette #sewing #lace #lingerie #sewyourown #handmadelingerie #madetomeasure #lingerielove #madeincanada #sewyyc See more

I have a client who pushes me to create. This is her latest. Last year was a strapless!! This is a wired sports bra made from her master pattern. I raised the centre front, underarms and changed the back-band to a ‘racer back’. The final product utilizes wickable material on the lower cup and a wide bottom band elastic. I used sheer cup lining as a stabilizer under scuba. Her plan is to use this for a number of high impact physical activities. #custommade #custommadebra #yycsews #bramakerssupply #sportsbra #supportivesportsbra #bramaker #bramakers

Its been a busy weekend. This fushia bra is the second mock up for a short wire. The first version I decided to draft her band via Bare Essentials 3 drafting and put in the cups from The classic with the added split lower cup cause the tester bra fit her close to perfect. Well, this mash up failed. The band was way off fitting her which in turn did not have the cups fit well (regardless of the support the wire gave). So we went back to the tester and now this is 100% PUG... classic but with a few mods. Downward hike the backband, lower centre front to clients preference for a shorter wire, split the lower cup cause of shape and density, wedged out the neckline cause it was digging in. She has a 4.25 BCD which recommends a 1/2 BBE but I gave her a 3x3 hook and eye for extra band support with the plunging neckline. The finished version will have a purple lace over. All supplies are from @bramakerssupply #classicbra #bramaking #bramakingsupplies #customfitbra #bramaker #bramakers #pugclassicbra #handmade #sewing #sewyourownlingerie #handmadelingerie #madetomeasure #sewyyc See more